A new access restriction has been agreed for the recently re/developed Moel y Gest quarry. Elfyn Jones, the BMC Cymru Access Officer explains:

“Following discussions with the RSPB a new access agreement has been established for the Moel y Gest quarry. The quarry is an important nesting site for both chough, peregrine and raven.”

“The recommendation is that to start with there is an agreed restriction on all climbing and bouldering from March 1st until June 15th. In addition, as the birds move around from year to year (some years they all nest in the west bay, other years they are in both bays) it’s possible that the agreed restricted area of will be reduced, following site visits in late April. The RSPB would also like the caveat (as the restricted period is much shorter than the usual restrictions) for climbers to use a bit of discretion outside of this period and avoid certain bits of the quarry if they see that that they are disturbing the birds excessively (i.e. lots of screeching or obviously agitated birds).”

The BMC’s Regional Access Database is the definitive source of up to date access info. Please check the link below for updates and changes to all access arrangements.

On a different, but rather sad note, Dave Noden reports finding evidence of chipping on the crux hold of his own problem, Beautitude Kiss. If anybody has any information regarding this please get in touch.

Relevant links:
      BMC Regional Access Database
      Original Moel y Gest news item
      A Life Aesthetic V13/8B