|
During Si 'Fatneck' Huthwaite’s stag do weekend at Porth Ysgo Mike Adams established three new lines. First up he repeated Dolly Rocker V11/12/8A/+ from the proper low start. Earlier this year Mike had received some criticism for not starting the problem properly. This time he made no mistake and dispatched it quickly as he explains:
“I managed to watch the vid of Dave doing it so I knew for certain where the line starts and goes. I managed this on the sat and although it is perhaps a little lowball it has superb moves. As for the grade, I daren't comment so I’m just gonna stick with the original reported grade.”
On Sunday Mike climbed the obvious snatchy sitting start to Nodder’s Flake to give Dog Star V9/7C.
Next up Mike climbed Sirius Sikini V8/7B, this being the aręte right of Nodder’s Flake from a standing start.
And finally Mike climbed Simple Things V6/7A – the thin wall above the Winter Swell traverse. Start on the big side pull and climb up on small holds to a distinctive slap for a sloper up on the right.
Si Huthwaite had some fun on the seaward face of the boulder down below the Bubbles traverse. There is a small roof featuring some very rough rock. Four problems were done here...
1. L-to-R lip traverse finishing up the right arete - V2.
2. A sit start under the right arete on a flake and finishing up the arete - V1
3. A fun low ball mantel on the left side of the roof at an obvious boss - V0
4. A sit start as per problem 2 but reversing the traverse and finishing up the mantel - V3
Another possible new line was climbed by Rich Hession right of Sirius Sikini. This V5/6Cish line starts sitting at the chunky sidepull, making a big move up and right to the slopey arete up which the problem finishes. The stand up may have been done by Ben Farley before.
A weekend at Porth Ysgo - Dec 2011 from Raw Edge Days on Vimeo.
Relevant links:
Dolly Rocker news item
Nodder's Flake news item
Winter Swell news item
|
