After a long-standing period of Cave abstinence Dave Noden has got psyched for Parisella’s again. Last week he repeated Halfway House 8A, and then followed this a few days later with the second ascent of Chris Davies’ Daisy from Concrete 8A/+.
Obviously on a roll, Dave decided to take advantage of his rejuvenated love for the Cave by trying one of the remaining unclimbed links. Broken Heart into Trigger Cut is a good line and differs from all the other Broken Heart finishes (save for Broken Direct 8A) by having a genuinely hard top out.
Dave has perfected a series of knee bars in this part of the cave and their usage has prompted much debate over the grades. Clearly the knee bars do reduce the difficulty, but not perhaps as much as some have suggested. Using them does involve more moves and more hanging in there to arrange the positions. Also, they are not all bomber, some being more akin to a knee ‘scuzz’, i.e. helpful but not a comfortable shake out.
With all this in mind, Dave has suggested a grade of soft 8A+ for Broken Trigger.
To see a film and read more of Nodder’s thoughts on this check out his blog .