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Pete Robins landed on the Crafnant boulders on Friday and swept his way through a quartet of impressive highball lines.
First to fall was A. Read's Rescue 7A+!, the left side of the big aręte on the large boulder at the bottom left side of the boulder field (the right side goes at an excellent 6B+!). The finish of this is particularly gripping as the top is very sloping – be warned!
Next he went for the direct line up the centre of the thin slab to the left. Although it is possible to escape off into the obvious 6Bish line on the left this is still a distinctive and very classic problem. The crux comes right at the top; after much experimentation, and a few test falls onto the small landing zone, Pete solved it with a wild and committing dyno for a good sloper at the lip. O.M.G. rates 7B+! and is similar in difficulty to La Super Prestat at Bas Cuvier in Fontainebleau.
Pete then homed in on the dramatic hanging aręte on the left side of the diagonal corridor leading up towards Wonderwall. After a quick ab to clean the upper section he went for it. An alarming jump start gives access to some slappy compression moves; keep going and the difficulty soon eases. False Start rates 7A!.
The obvious direct start was then despatched; On Your Marks 7C! starts statically with hands matched on undercuts at the base of the hanging groove. Gain the slopey lip and improvise out and rightwards into False Start to finish.
“These are all major lines destined to become area classics. Pete is certainly on fire at the moment; anything seems possible when he turns up at the crag.” Said Si Panton, who was there mapping the boulder field for the new guide.
NB. A note of caution for visitors during the wetter months: be wary of parking on the lower right side at the road head. The ground here is very soft and a number of vehicles (including Si and Pete’s van on Friday) have got stuck here. A better option is to park on the left, although it is worth chocking your wheels.
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