Chris Davies has returned to Tan y Grisiau and given his own problem New Noise a proper sit down start.
The original line was done from a crouching start which lead to confusion over what was in and what was not. Two easier versions then emerged – one starting further out and one, from Pete Robins, pulling on with a pinch on the right.
As it turns out the most natural line is to connect a sds into the pinch method as Chris explains:
“The problem is now a hybrid I guess of the original New Noise and the right hand pinch version. The natural way to climb the entire line is to pull on with both hands matching the crescent, gain the first undercut and then launch rightwards to the pinch that Pete used. You then just climb to the lip anyway you can – fortunately for the line the easiest way to do this is to move back into the original New Noise finish – very groovy.”
“With regards to the grade, this is pretty tricky! I know this bit of rock more than any other mountain venue in Wales right now – I’ve spent a lot of time here over the years, and it’s really basic. I got this done in three sessions, but I think I’m going well (stranger things…)!”
“Basically, Pete mentioned that his version of New Noise was 7C/+ - he’s about right (two move problem – one hard move). I think the lower section (i.e. the first two moves) is harder at possibly 8A? To link them is great, but I’m ultimately unsure of the grade – 8A+, maybe a bit harder.”