Owen Hayward has added a series of excellent new problems and links to the Crispin’s Unfortunate Girdle block at Rhyd Ddu. This block of perfect dolerite was first developed in 2010 by Martin Crook and Johnny Dawes.
The up lines are as follows:
Ribbit 7A ** Great moves on slopers up the right side of the blunt arete. From a sds at the right end of the juggy break slap to the obvious sloper up and right and use this and the sloper on the arete to gain the lip and a slightly tenuous top out.
Frog 6B * From a sds in the juggy break climb the blunt arete on its left hand side. Make a long move up to the crack on the lip and use this and the sloper on the arete to gain a standing position in the break and an easier top out.
Toad 6B+ * From a sds in the juggy break further left gain the lip and struggle to gain a standing position in the break and an easy top out.
Owen has completed a number of superb links from the main traverse:
Crispy Frog 7A * Follow Crispin’s but finish up Frog.
Crispy Toad 7A * Follow Crispin’s but finish up Toad.
Reverse Ribbit 7A+ * Start at the far left of the juggy break, reverse Crispin’s to the right end of the juggy break then finish up Ribbit.
Reverse ZZ Top Out 7A+ ** A full left-to-right traverse of the block finishing up ZZ Top Out.
“These are all good and on brilliant rough, slopey rock. It’s a nice, chilled venue with quick drying rock and anti-midge wind exposure. If it has been raining, wear your wellies – the first part of the approach can get a bit boggy, although on Friday it was okay.”
The steep prow up to the right has some good fun problems: a traverse and a mantel. There is also a further block with a slightly highball 5+ a little further up the hillside.
N.B. Crispin’s Unfortunate Girdle is probably more like 7A, rather than the originally mooted 7A+.