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Pete trying Clear Water 7C on a previous visit. Photos: Si Panton



Neil Dyer repeating Recycled Assassin 7A+!

On Saturday Pete Robins took advantage of the exceptionally dry, cold conditions by cleaning up two well known project lines in the Beddgelert Forest. Firstly he went back to the Boss Cuvier block to do battle with the sitting start to Water, a line that he had come close to doing a few years back on a rather warm, midgey day.

This time there were no midges and the friction was as Velcro-like as you could ask for. Pete climbed straight up from the Clear Vision/Clear Spot start to a match on the good crimp, before making a high rockover onto the ramp and standing up for the top. Clear Water rates 7C.

Pleased with that he then raced over to the Shocker area and made the second ascent of a little known Rob Lamey problem. Vale Coast Crew sits in a secluded ‘room’ in the centre of the cluster of boulders and is accessed from the right side. Rob had suggested 6C+/7A for this excellent line, but some notable failures had left this harsh grade assessment in question. Pete thought it could be anything between 7A and 7B. The problem starts sitting and uses a crucial crimp out left; the top out is highball but thankfully blessed with ample holds to ease the nerves.

Next Pete turned his attention to the attractive highball wall round to the right on the outside facet of the boulder cluster. There was evidence of prior cleaning and an in situ rope (it is not known who the rope belongs too?). After a few ‘test falls’ Pete went for it and linked the gas pocket features. The Stunner 7A+! is a real classic and a great addition to this neat collection of problems.

”It’s an awesome high wall, one of the best in the area!”

Enthused Pete after the ascent.

Stop Press: It turns out that The Stunner was actually first climbed in June last year by Lloyd Eyers. Lloyd named this brilliant line: Recycled Assassin. On Friday Neil Dyer (fresh back from a long trip to Canada) made a repeat and confirmed the quality.

Relevant links:
      The Shocker news item
      More Shocker area problems
      Even more Shocker area problems