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Ned on the initial section of his new 8A+ Photos: Shauna Coxey

…and close to the end.


Ned Feehally has climbed a hard roof/lip traverse on the Sea View Walls (home to the über classic Flashpoint) on Great Orme. The new line tackles the lip traverse line on the undercut wall in the bay right of Flashpoint.

Ned started on the little aręte under the roof on the left and broke through to follow the lip rightwards then moving up via an obvious sidepull in the brown streak to finish at the break. The rock above is a little cruddy so this seemed a logical place to stop.

Ned reckoned Enemy Anemone (try saying that after a few beers!) is probably worth 8A+, but the best thing about it, as he explains, is the quality of the problem:

“The climbing is great with plenty of heels and squeezing. A bit like Lou Ferrino on (more) steriods! There are a couple of really cool fossil holds under the roof that you use for hands and feet. They looked a little friable but they supported my girth so they are probably solid. I would say it's one of the better problems on the Orme.”

Power stamina beast should note that there is a possible hard extension continuing along the lip all the way – this section (which Ned did the moves on) is probably 8A on its own, so the full link will be extremely difficult.

“I finished about 3/4 the way along the arete, but it would be possible to stay on the lip all the way to the end. I did all the moves on the end section, and think it would be 8aish on it's own. But it wouldn't really make a good problem in it's own right due to the start position not being very obvious. The real challenge is to link the whole thing, but that will be nails! The hardest move is right at the end, after about 20 moves with no rest. It's a really good project, and might even keep Robins busy for a couple of sessions!”

Shauna Coxey was on hand to film the ascent of Enemy Anemone – you can view it here.

Relevant links:
      Sea View Prowess news item
      Between the Doyle and the Deep Blue Sea news item
      Flashpoint sds news item