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Eadan on the first ascent of Disenchantment (7C) photos: Cunningham collection


The Dyffryn Ogwen bonanza continues – this week Eadan Cunningham climbed a fine pair of new lines on a superb boulder on the lower section of the north ridge of Tryfan. Disenchantment (7C) climbs the steep bow-shaped aręte from a standing start on its right side, while Racing a Ghost (7A) tackles the same feature from a sds on its left side.

“They do climb really well.” Said Eadan, before adding, “I found it whilst walking up Tryfan like two years ago (its literally where all the paths meet over the first rise). So easy to spot but I didn't actually make the effort until now. There's still a sit to be done to the first problem which will be a lot harder and I’m keen for people to get on it”

Craig Davies wasted no time, getting a quick repeat a few days later, confirming the grade and quality.

Approach: from the Carreg Filltir/Milestone lay-by follow the main path up on the left side of the wall running up to the crag. The path continues up leftwards until it starts to flatten out a bit and you reach some scree. Follow the path along and up the scree slope until you reach the east side of Tryfan. From there head up and trend right to reach the top of the first rise on the north ridge. Where it flattens out fully you will find the boulder on the right.(53.119472, -3.995222)

Click the links below for the FA footage and location.

Relevant links:
      First ascent film
      Google maps location