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Ben on the crux of Gwyllgi (8B), Yr Arfordir Du photo: Adam Long

Tim Blake on the second ascent of Hipnotherapy (7C+), Yr Arfordir Du photo: Si Panton

Pete robins on Captain Corona's Pangolin (8A), Fedw Fawr photo: Si Panton

Pete Robins on Underworld (8A), Fedw Fawr photo: Si Panton

With the Coastal and NE Limestone guide still in production mode all reporting of coastal news has been put on hold (mostly to reduce the work burden), however, every now and then a really significant first ascent happens and the embargo is lifted.

On Tuesday Ben Bransby completed his long term roof project at the newly developed Arfordir Du area east of Fedw Fawr, Ynys Món. Gwyllgi (8B) tackles a 6m wide roof, with a desperate crux exit gaining a hanging aréte once the lip is turned. Ben had completed a shorter 8A+ version earlier in the year but the full monty proved to be frustratingly difficult to nail.

Gwyllgi is the first 8B on the island and its existence owes as much to Ben’s tenacity and skill as the random effects of Storm Arwen. In the midst of causing havoc along the coast this rogue storm swept huge blocks out from the back of the roof, thus clearing the way for a batch of epic problems.

Yr Arfordir Du is just one of several excellent limestone and sandstone crags that have been developed in the Moelfre – Fedw Fawr – Penmon area of Ynys Món. Pete Robins has been the main driver of development here, amassing a huge amount of quality first ascents, including future test pieces such as Captain Corona’s Pangolin (8A) and Underworld (8A) at Fedw Fawr and Hipnotherapy (7C+) at Yr Arfordir Du.

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