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Craig cutting loose on the lip of Firing Blanks (8A+) photo: Davies collection

Yes folks, it’s Dyffryn Ogwen again – this time I can report a tough link from Craig Davies. Firing Blanks (8A+) starts with Jim Pope’s recent addition, Blankety Blank but takes the hard Lily’s Left Hand exit.

”It’s really the best line on the block in my opinion - it starts right and the bottom and climbs directly through the face topping out direct. The last section is really good, minus the flake that’s a little uncomfortable. The wide moves and the insecure heel you use definitely put a sting in the tail.” said Craig after the ascent.

Although Lily’s Left Hand is given 7B+ in the guide, many feel that the reachy moves make it worth a meatier grade. Craig repeated it from the start of Lily Savage and reckoned this was worth 8A, and also that it was also worth 7C from the flake.

Craig has been quick on the draw to repeat the new crop of grade 8s that have sprung up this year. Most notably he made an impressive flash of Aidan Roberts’ Hot Pod Soft (8A+) at Carreg Mianog. He is certainly going well, and definitely psyched up by the energy in the scene, as he explains:

”It helps having lots of new problems to get on, it’s also been good to climb with a lot of these other strong climbers, it certainly helps you step up your game. Hot Pod was really good, all the stars aligned on that one (except I nearly fluffed the top), Drums in the Deep next to it is also incredible and I’d rate it as one of the best wall problems in Wales.”

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