James Taylor and Sam Tolhurst have climbed a brilliant compression prow in a sea-level cave right of the prominent white arch at the north end of the Rhoscolyn cliffs.
Leviathan (8A) starts from an obvious crouch start, hands matched on good holds. A complex sequence, involving some knee bar action, leads out and up to finish matched on a good hold where the rock turns vertical and your feet are under you.
James spotted the line while looking for new route potential. Then him and Sam spent several sessions working it out together over the summer months. When the cooler autumn conditions arrived they were ready to pounce - on the day James got it first but Sam nailed it shortly after.
”This is a tough 8A, we thought 8A+ but probably not quite hard enough." said James after the ascent.
There is a possible sit down start to the prow, adding a few hard moves and looking like it might be around 8B+.
James has put together a fun little film about the problem - see the link below.
NB. The route above the prow is Pinch Me, a fierce E7 6c first climbed by Pete Robins in 2017 (”Steep start then strenny up some cracks, then bit of a lottery-solid-holds finish.” according to Pete.)
Relevant links:
Leviathan (8A) film
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