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Willow boulder, Fachwen, photo: Si Panton

Over the last year a number of access issues have emerged in the North Wales area. Please pay heed to the following notes and keep an eye on the BMC Regional Access Database for updates.

Fachwen: there is a new suggested approach route for the Pen y Bigil/ Accomazzo’s Wall area.

From the top of Gallt y Foel turn right and follow the narrow tarmacked lane. After 200m it turns into a rougher track. Ignore the right hand turn leading down towards Clwt y Bont and continue for 80m to a gate just past the Tyddyn Du property. Continue on the descending path (a PRoW) for 100m where there is a large Holly tree underneath the path and a recess on the left with a short leaning wall just above on the left. (GPS 53.140491, -4.129422) Follow a vague path up rightwards through the recess (can be overgrown with bracken in the summer months), then over and, 100m from the main path, left just in front of a clean wall. The path, indefinite in places, continues to snake towards Pen y Bigil for 400m. Follow it up on the southern side of the hill until you can see Accomazzo’s Wall at GPS 53.137047, -4.130195.

The Harris’ Arête GPS coordinates are incorrect in the guidebook. They should be 53.136163, -4.134153.

Please avoid accessing the area via the Bigil track as described in the recent guidebooks.

The Willow boulder area had anti access signs painted during the Covid lockdown and a few people were challenged by the landowner. Since then it appears that access to this boulder is being tolerated. Please keep a low a profile and keep the noise down.

Ystrad: this small bouldering venue is useful in hot weather due to the cool air coming out of the mineshafts. The site is part of a series of copper mines with deep and dangerous shafts. Despite a public path passing nearby, the bouldering is on private land and is not on land designated as open access.

The landowner has made it clear he does not give permission for access to this area and he has asked people to leave in the past. Dogs should not be taken here as there is a real danger of them falling down hidden mineshafts. The main public path that leads towards the site passes close to the farm at the roadside, close to Betws Garmon.

God of Small Men boulder: there have been reports of the landowner challenging visitors to this boulder. The broken fence is likely the issue, although it is unknown if this was the result of climbers? If you visit please keep a low profile, do not damage the fence, or venture any further into the woodland.

Coed Dinas-ddu: the main parking spot here has been blocked by a newly built entrance. Please use the alternative parking spots near Pont Aberglaslyn.

Carreg Mianog: the landowner has made it clear that they do not want people approaching the Caff’s Wall boulders (which are on open access land) via the Glan Llugwy farm track. So please come over the top via the Carreg Mianog approach.

Relevant links: