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Andy on The Fisherman and Me (7A) photo: Moles collection



It seems that Cwm Lloer, like many road-distant places in Dyffryn Ogwen, has untapped potential for quality bouldering. Having recently climbed a tricky E7 headpoint on Craig Ddaear (see link below for more details), Andy Moles couldn’t help but notice the adjacent possibilities.

Returning with his pad he was rewarded with a fine crop of problems on great rock.

1. Topsoil 6A
Start sitting, hands on jugs. Move right to match a juggy slot, and then lunge direct to the lip.

2. Wildfire 6B+
From a standing start. with left hand in a juggy slot, and right on the aręte, slap up the arete. The sitting/low start is an obvious project line.

3. Groovin’ Low 6B+
Start sitting, hands on a low sideways jug. Pull up into long layaway, snag the lip and haul into groove on good hidden holds.

4. The Fisherman and Me 7A
Start matched on a sidepull flake. Snag the lip and follow it rightwards to gain a crack, and then use this to rock out onto the slab. A low start would need to eliminate the foot slab to be worthwhile.

Relevant links:
      Bury the Bright Edge E7