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Andy Moles on Pwyso a Mesur (7A) photo: Si Panton


Max Dickens on Pen Madarch (7B) photo Si Panton

Si Panton has been busy doing lots of new lines on the Tonfedd/Wavelength hillside. Here’s the first batch of problems (more to come in future reports).

I’ve had a lot of fun playing in this little area. The rock is outstanding dolerite, basically as good as it gets and the problems are really absorbing. I had briefly looked at it back in the ‘90s when Mark Evans did his line, but then forgot all about it until Si jones had a dabble last year, doing a short version of the right hand line/exit. It was clear that the main challenges had not been done yet, so I got stuck in.”

Said Si, before adding:

”They’re all great, obviously, but Pen Madarch was a real special moment. I’d slipped off the final hard move about a dozen times spread over many visits, and did wonder if I would ever do it? Big George turned up randomly just as I was about to have a go. I didn’t think it was on so I didn’t bother to ask him to film it. Then suddenly half way through I felt strong and knew it might happen. I stuck all the bad slopers at the end and before I knew it I was collapsed on top in a state of shock! Pure fucking gold feeling!”

The action occurs on a cluster of boulders 20m to the right of the Appauled boulder (see page 165 in NWB 3.1). First is the upper bulging face with a prominent diagonal aręte/lip:

Boi Doniol 6A+
Diagonal aręte/lip. Start sitting, hands in the low break. Make hard moves leftward to gain base of aręte, then follow the lip all the way up right.

Pwyso a Mesur 7A
Start sitting hands in the low break (just right of the Boi Doniol start). Climb straight up on poor compression holds and rock out onto the slab to finish. [SP 05.22]

Boi Gwirion 6A+
Start sitting at the right side of the low break. Shuffle up right to a right hand finger jam, then reach up left for the slopey lip. Finish leftwards or rightwards.

Underneath there is a long nose of rock forming a roof.

1. Mark’s Roof 6C+
Follow Pen Madarch to the horizontal seam then make a tricky exit up left. [Mark Evans 90s]

2. Pen Madarch 7B
Start matched in the small letterbox hold below the lip and 1m right of the left aręte. Follow the lip rightwards past a horizontal seam with increasing difficulty into the same exit as Cryfder dy Gobaith. [SP 16.10.23]

3. Cryfder dy Gobaith 7A
Start sitting underneath, hands in the roof crack. Power up to the slopey lip and exit desperately up rightwards, before mantelling back out leftwards. [SP 07.22]

4. Bron Marw 7A+
Start sitting, hands in the roof crack, as per Cryfder dy Gobaith, but after the first jam move switch to a leftward leading sequence and follow the slopey lip leftwards to finish up the left aręte. Power fade likely as you hit the strangely difficult finish. [SP 08.10.23]

A short version of Bron Marw is The Wonderful Life of Walter Gritty etc. Pull on at the lip and head left into the Mark’s Roof finish [Phil Targett 2016].

There is also a good 6B+ sds on the obvious boulder 20m up above the Pwyso a Mesur wall.

Relevant links: