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James McHaffie on Goleuadau'r Gogledd (7B+/C) photo: McHaffie collection

James McHaffie has climbed an impressive aręte up above Gorlan (Sheep Pen) in Nant Ffrancon. Goleuadau'r Gogledd (7B+/C) can be found on the left side of the obvious large pinnacle directly up the hill from the Gnasher boulder.

”I found this last week but bottled it above one pad. I then brought up a second pad but blew a tip. So I came back after the weekend and got it done.”

Said Caff, before adding:

” It climbs to a crimp slit on the aręte (which you can get with either hand), then a hard move to a good hold a metre up left, followed by a big lock back right to a jug in a crack and big flake jugs above to a slab and an easy down climb on the left. It could be 7C if ground upping, but possibly easier if tall. It’s a stellar line and definitely worth the hike up there.”

N.B. The landing below the line is quite sloping, so a tied off spotter is advisable.

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