James McHaffie has climbed another impressive highball, this time on Craig Ffynnon Peris, a small crag sitting just above Nant Peris. Ysbryd (8A!) tackles the left side of the striking central arête of the crag.

Back in 1998 Mark Katz climbed Agua Caliente, a bold F7c+ which went up the right side of the arête, before making a hard swing round on to its upper left side. Dave Noden did the second ascent in 2003, then Pete Robins the third in 2006, but it never became a popular test piece and was left to gather dust.

Caff had belayed Pete on his ascent, so had a memory of the feature, albeit slightly dimmed by the passage of time. Returning this year he soon found himself drawn into the challenge of climbing the arête all the way on its steeper left side.

”The arête looked unlikely from underneath, and I almost didn't bother abbing it even, but as the landing was good I decided to check it out.”

“The first undercut is very flat and the arête is never as good as you’d like. Also, the feet, after the start, are bad for quite a few moves, so it feels powerful. And the sidepull isn't that big.”

“It climbs so well. I’ve never done a sequence like it, with the toe hook and arête crossover. It’s funky as fuck! I would love to see what people think of it.”

Said Caff, before adding:

”It's much more accessible than some of the other highballs, so I hope it gets some attention. It's not as gnarly as Mur Gwyn and a bit harder than Y Blaidd.”

Check out the: Insta post with FA video for a look at the action.

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