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Noel Craine reaching round the bottom roof to the base of the flared jam slot of Jammerock British 6b! Photos: Big G


Adam Wainwright matched in the slot.


Noel snagging the slopey lip…


…and Adam laybacking to glory!


.

The big news is that Big G has found another jamming test piece, this time on the edge of the Dinorwig slate quarries. When asked what the grade was he muttered something about there being moves of a sufficiently tenuous nature to warrant a grade in the region of British 6b – gulp!

Dear NWB readers,

Great things come to those who wait for them long enough - especially those at Bus Stop Quarry. The track which leads into the bigger quarry passes around a small bluff adjacent to the football pitch.

There is a small outcrop of natural rock here, and I mean small! Half way along its length is a vertical jam crack.The Jammerock is approached from a sit down start, obvious holds leading around a small roof to a jam that will suit some and not others. The jams are in a smooth surfaced thirty degree wedge (think: slice of cake type angle).

More conventional holds out left bring a degree of salvation but one must concentrate in the upper reaches so as to not plummet through the uneven terrain below. Two spotters would be good.

"Beware the Jammerock my son........"

Regards,

Big G

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