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Alex on Liam Knees-on 6C+ Photos: Mason collection

Alex on President Business 7A

Alex (again) on Uni-kitty 7A+

Alex Mason, Tim Peck, Mike Goldthorp and Mark Riley have developed some superb new problems both on the Mallory Boulder and on the hillside up above. Alex climbed his lines back in November, while the other lads made their visit in February this year.

The Kragle boulder is located some distance up the hill from the Mallory Boulder (bring your sturdy hill walking thighs for the sweaty approach!). On the left side of the block there is an obvious line, but one which has been climbed three different ways. Alex first climbed it from a sitting start using the undercut crack and some poor holds up right to reach the top. He suggested 6C+ for Liam Knees-on. Tim subsequently managed to climb the line staying on the left and undercutting up to each the top at a much easier grade of 6A. Tim then climbed a direct/right hand version of the line using the poor holds to make a hard rockover above the lip of the steepness. Haa-M’knee rates 7A+.

To the right there is a hanging nose with an ‘exciting’ landing. Mike climbed this, much to the alarm of his spotter Mark. Nosey Parker rates 7A+!.

About 70m right of the Kragle boulder there is an awesome flying prow feature. Alex climbed this from a sitting start to give President Business 7A. He also climbed an excellent 7A+ sit down start (called Uni-kitty) beneath a magnificent prow located halfway up the hillside between the Kragle boulder and the Mallory Boulder.

And last but not least, there are a couple of previously unrecorded (and perhaps unclimbed) lines on the left side of the Mallory Boulder. First up Mike climbed Seam Grip, a splendid 6C+! which starts sitting on the left with a slopey ramp and a mono. Pop to the break, and then use the glorious seam and arête to a slopey top.

Mark then added a brilliant line to the right; Seams Right 6B+! goes up a vague ramp to the break, moving from seam to seam and then to the slopey top. Both of these problems have spicy landings, but they can be tamed with three pads, or more if you’ve got them.

Check out Tim’s film for some footage of the above problems:

A Perfect Day at Mallory and Beyond! from Tim peck on Vimeo.

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