Pete Edwards has revealed the details of another boulder he has developed in the woods opposite Plas y Brenin. The Mymbyr Boulder has six lines from 5C to 7B+
“It was originally found and discarded by Jon Ratcliffe back in the day, but I found the boulder last November while wandering the woods on lunch breaks. After a quick once over with the brush, and a hefty session dragging debris from the bottom of the boulder, I started ticking off the problems on Christmas Eve 2014 - hence the name of the easiest of the lines.”
Explained Pete, before adding:
“Around half of the lines are pure climbs but the others are a touch eliminate - such is life I'm afraid with what's there. There is certainly quality there though and a couple are two star problems at least (in my opinion). With the other nearby boulders, it's certainly worth a look, especially as landings are generally good and the rock dries incredibly quickly. Be warned it is a midge haven though.”
Storeman's Legacy 7A+ (red line on topo) Start on the bulge on the left with both hands on low ledges and feet in the poor high shelf underneath (both blocks underneath are out). Make thrutchy moves up through average holds to top out directly above. There is a variation, CA’s Legacy 6B which uses the larger rock shelf underneath.
New Direction 6C (green line on topo) Probably the best line on the boulder; start on the left of the obvious large shelf and work up to the aręte before trending left to top out at the top of Legacy.
Fresh Eyes project (brown line on topo)The provisional name given to the obvious mantle shelf problem from shelf to lip and straight up.
Ground Clearance 6C+ (yellow line on topo) The prow feature on the right, starting as low as possible, considering the large block underneath you (right hand small crimp, left hand finger jug at the end of the shelf, feet on the rock under the boulder proper). Squeeze your way up to a tricky topout or, once on the lip, link up into Christmas Comes Early for 6C.
Christmas Comes Early 5C (blue line on topo) Starting on the right edge of the boulder, traverse right along jugs, avoiding the top, to finish at the apex of the block.
Dichotomy of Good and Evil 7B+ (pink line on topo) Good moves on evil thin crimps, this is three brutal snatches, eliminating anything out left that could be classed as ‘good’. Start sitting (left hand: quarter pad crimp, right hand: tiny crimp letterbox hold at same height) and rise up rightwards through thin holds to finish at the apex.
There is also a lip traverse; starting for New Direction and traversing the upper lip to finish up Ground Clearance - Finish It Properly rates 6B.
Approach: Cross the bridge at the bottom of the ski slope at Plas y Brenin and turn right along the track. Walk past a couple of poor dirty crags on your left before a small clearing and an interesting looking boulder on the hill appear on your left after about five minutes. Follow the vague track up the hill and find the boulder is only three feet tall... but look behind it to see the excellent Mymbyr Boulder. Problems are described left to right.
Mymbyr First Ascents Vol 1 from Pete Edwards on Vimeo.
The first four firsts from my newfound boulder (location undisclosed as yet). Not the best video i'm afraid, apologies, but a starting point - it'll only get better from here!