North Wales Bouldering News ::: News Details :: Post-guide first ascent surge

Post-guide first ascent surge - 30/09/2017

The new Ground Up NWB guide has only been out for a very short time but already the new lines have begun to fall. The weather hasn’t been too kind either – if it had been a bit drier there would have undoubtedly been much more to report.

The best effort (outside of Parisella's Cave - which will be covered in a seperate item) so far comes from Tom Newman who managed to climb the obvious, albeit morpho, extended start to On Your Marks, Pete Robins’ superb 7C at Crafnant. Get Set rates 8A and Tom reckons it is one of the best lines he’s climbed in the UK! See page 268 in the new guide.

Get Set 8Aish from Tom Newman on Vimeo.

Elsewhere Michael Allday climbed Project 4 in the Shocker area of Beddgelert Forest. Jungle Combat went at 7B+. See page 434 in the new guide.

Over in the Aberglaslyn woods, Joe Sterling has climbed Dog Hans, the obvious link of Dog Crack into Super Hans. Surprisingly, Joe reckoned it still felt about 7B. See page 383 in the new guide.

Up on the Fachwen hillside Howard Blyth climbed the stunning Timbo’s Slice 7A+ - this was listed as the Leaning Fin project on page 28 in the new guide. The landing below this is pretty spicy so be sure to take at least three pads if you fancy a go.

First Ascent of Timbo's Slice 7A+, Fachwen from Tim peck on Vimeo.

On the edge of Pigeon’s Cave Jim Pope snatched his way up the stand up version of the sds project right of October Furnace. A grade of 7B was suggested but then the crucial crimp broke. Both the stand up and the obviously desperate sitter may still be climbable? See page 604 in the new guide.

NB. Project 9 on the Pigeon’s Cave Boulders was actually climbed back in December last year by Chris Doyle. Left Handsome rates 6B+, but there is a harder, 7A, right hand variation: Right Handsome.

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