home »
  news archive »
  guidebook »
  topos & stuff »
  gallery »
  links »
  search »
  contact »
  v12outdoor »


Paul Houghoughi on one of the classic highballs; photos: Houghoughi collection

Carys 7A+

The 7B+ pinch line

The Prow project!

Back in the summer, just after the new NWB guide had gone to the printers, Paul Houghoughi went exploring in Nant Ffrancon, specifically on the hillside just south of the Penrhyn Quarry (GPS: 53.157111, -4.058765). Here there is a cluster of boulders, split into two obvious zones. These boulders have been probed by various parties over the years. There is certainly a decent collection of problems, with some great highballs and some obvious project lines, including an impressive prow.

After warming up on the existing lines Paul picked off a few new grade 7s. Carys 7A+ is the obvious undercut line in the second zone of boulders. This goes from a sitting start; Paul also did a line starting on the right and climbing left into the finish of Carys which is about 7B.

On a boulder close to the quarry spoil heaps he also climbed a 6B+ dyno and a 7B+ line using an obvious pinch.

Paul is originally from Bangor and over the years has made some brilliant first ascents in the area (e.g. The Punk 7C,on the Clogwyn y Tarw boulders). He now lives in Dorset and has been cranking out some new lines on the limestone crags; check out this excellent film from Project Magazine of a hard project line that he took on: You Can Go Now

(NWB reporter: Si Panton)

Relevant links: