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Pete on the first ascent of Mirror Ivy Direct 7A+ photos: Si Panton

…and also on Creeper 7B

…and The Bulge Right 6C

On Saturday Pete Robins added four new lines to Pen-y-Gogo – see page 543 and page 510 (for an action shot) in the new NWB guide. Mirror Ivy Direct is the obvious direct version of Mirror Ivy blasting straight up the wall from the sds past a left hand crimp and a right hand diagonal hold.

Creeper 7B starts from the adjacent sitting start position just to the right (large creaky undercut). Power up the wall on undercuts to gain the diagonal hold with your left and keep pulling to the slopey top out.

Pete also added two easier sds lines to the lower left hand buttress. The Bulge Left rates 6C+ and The Bulge Right rates 6C. Both lines gain the obvious fin in the middle of the buttress.

To reach the crag follow the footpath running south from the Sun Inn in Llanengan and past Tan Rallt Farm. The Pen-y-Gogo escarpment is soon reached (5-10 mins) – the problem is on the first section you come to.

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