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James McHaffie had a pleasant surprise while perusing the Moel y Gest chapter of the new Mountain Crags volume. He realized that he had unwittingly climbed two new lines last year, thinking at the time he was just repeating existing problems.

The Singularity (7C) is the full length version of Joe Sterling’s slopey lip traverse, Jambon’s Smooth Panther which only tackled half of the lip. (See page 587 in the Mountain Crags volume.) The new version is super sustained and a strong contender for the best slopey traverse in North Wales. (See the Dirty Dozen list on page 29 for other contenders)

The other adjacent line, The Super Prow (7B+), is the logical extension to Dave Noden’s Dead Man’s Curve. Instead of baling off left into the scoop, as the line on the topo shows, continue up the arête to join the finish of The Singularity. As the name suggests, this is another very high quality problem.

Singularity FA from Simon Panton on Vimeo.



Super Prow FA from Simon Panton on Vimeo.

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