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Noel Craine grimacing on the difficult starting pull of Wedge RH 6C photo: Si Panton

The Covid travel restrictions ensured that areas such as Clegir continued to draw attention in the winter period, especially from those living in the Llanberis area.

At Craig Ddaear Drwg Martin Crook added Gunships (6C) – this is the obvious right-to-left rising traverse of the block in front of the crag. Start sitting at the bottom right of the block and follow the lip up left before moving round left to a line of ledges leading under the prow to finish up on the crag side. On the pillar behind and just left of Encroachment Wolf Leeb climbed Hammer Time (7A+). This tackles the leaning wall from a sds with a hand on each arête, working up the left arête to an obvious left hand pinch/sidepull before rocking over rightwards to finish. Crispin Waddy climbed the right arête of the leaning wall from a sds at 6B+. Wolf also climbed an eliminate line up the wall left of Waiting for Vizzini at 6C+. See page 91 in the new NWB Volume 1 Mountain Crags guide.

Andy Moles managed to climb the Cliff’s Prow sds project at a surprisingly amenable grade of 6C. See page 87 in the new NWB Volume 1 Mountain Crags guide.

On Llwyn Coed Si Panton added a slight variation, essentially a direct sds to Van Scenes/Sticky Carpets. From a position sat on the tree root, pull on with a pair of not great undercuts and move up into the Van Scenes sequence. It goes at a similar 7A/+ grade to the other lines here. See page 78 in the new NWB Volume 1 Mountain Crags guide.

The Bunker, briefly mentioned on page 90, should have had on reflection a full description. In particular, Huggy Bear, the right hand prow is well worth seeking out. It gives a superb compression problem that goes at 6C+ish from a sds. The top out is trickier than it looks. It was first climbed by Mark Dicken in 2010. The left hand prow is The Wedge (6C), also climbed by Mark back in 2010 – Crispin Waddy climbed a similarly difficult right hand exit on this moving into the Bunk’d crack on the right.

More esoteric action can be had at the nearby Crack House, as briefly mentioned on page 89. You can glean more about this quiet backwater here. Mark also climbed a good 6B+ traverse on a short wall just by the Clegir road 140m back towards Llanberis from the junction of the old military road network and the Clegir road. It faces away from the road but you will see it if you look back to your left. 53.128431, -4.152907

One other previously unreported item: Caff climbed the obvious link of Pengo’s Roof across the lip into the finish of Final Frontier at a slightly harder grade, perhaps 7B?

Some grade feedback is starting to filter through on the new problems climbed in 2020. More opinions are needed before a true consensus emerges though, so I’ll wait before doing a round up on these. Needless to say, a degree of variance should be expected on these ‘fresh-out-of-the-box’ lines, especially when hold breakage occurs.

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