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In Coed Dinas-ddu, home to Super Crack, there have been a couple of fine new additions.
Tim Blake climbed a superb, highball (i.e. 6.5m) aręte over to the left of the normal approach – just before you go through the gap in the wall you should see it on the left. Monotony (7A+!) takes the line of the overhanging aręte, using some lovely crimps and high heels to stand up delicately to the top. The landing is a bit iffy so a few pads are a good idea.
Further up in the woods Alex Mason added a good semi-eliminate line. Synonym for Cinnamon (7A+) starts sitting left of Edward de Boneoak. Pull straight up to the finger jugs on Lateral Crimpings, then using holds on the lip power out to the right aręte and top out direct with the help of the diagonal rail. Alex used a crimp out left for the sds but it can also be done from match on the low shelf.
See page 551 in the new North Wales Bouldering Volume 1: Mountain Crags guide.
NB. There has been some recent work done to the parking spot. It's not clear yet what the end purpose of the work is yet. If people are working here it would be best to park further up as per the Black Rhino.
Relevant links:
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