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Crispin on Flytipping 7A photos: George Smith

Noel on Flytipping RH

Crispin on Flytipping Trav 7A

Crispin on Dismantle 6B

Crispin Waddy has climbed a superb technical arete at Trango Tower in the Dinorwig slate quarries. Click here for the Google maps location. Flytipping (7A) is quite high but the landing is good. Start on the left side and swing round on pinches and heels. There is an easy finish off the ledge but it would be wise not to fluff this section. The arÍte can be climbed on its right side by lanky types at an easier grade.

He also climbed a fingery right-to-left low level traverse, moving underneath and around the arete from an obvious start on the right. To finish get established on a slab after the groove. This goes at a similar 7Aish grade. The groove itself is 6B and also good.

Further right there are some more worthwhile lines including a 6B sds left of the obvious mantel up to a double crimp and step left. The mantel itself, from sds to top out on the right, is 5Aish. Steady but high. The top needs a clean but is okay if you're used to rubble action like Crispin is. The mantel, without using any holds above it, is a good eliminate, and even has a name: Dismantle (6B).

Click here to see footage of Dave Towse on Flytipping, with Noel Craine(fly) spotting - it will help explain the name.

And lastly in this area, a previously unreported line from 2020: George Smith did a left-to-right traverse of the half tunnel feature on the front side of the adjacent peppermint-coloured tower. This is almost perma-dry and goes at 6Bish.

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