A landslide on the lower section of the East ridge of Y Garn in Cwm Idwal has revealed some fresh new rock. Phil Targett got there first last year, completing a series of lines up to 6B. Last week Jack Pearce swooped in to climb some harder additions. Pride of place goes to Huglife (7B+), which tackles the obvious steep compression prow on the front side of the boulder. After many frustrating dismounts on the wild swinging finish Jack finally got it just right and maintained contact to top out a very happy man.
”It starts with the left hand on a small sidepull/crimp on the underside of the boulder and right hand on a parallel sloper on the arete. At first glance the flake on the right looks like it would make the climbing feel a bit sketchy however in 30+ attempts I didn't come into contact with it once. The moves keep you way over on the left and the heel hook is extremely secure. The rock and moves are wonderful and the problem is one my favourite all time sends.” enthused Jack after the ascent.
Jack also climbed Doddletick (7A) which climbs through the obvious horizontal rail line of Phil’s problem, Nora Batty (6A+). Start sitting below the rail with a small crimpy sidepull for the left and juggy sidepull to the right. Gaining the rail from sitting is burly but very satisfying. From there go straight into a good ramp slightly to the left to finish with more ease. The righthand version follows the rail rightwards and then exits dynamically up a thin wall to the left of Cwympo (the 6A+ that goes straight up the nose of the boulder). Doddletick RH is 7A+ and a better problem. A 7A link into Cwympo is also possible.
To reach the boulders walk round the right side of Llyn Idwal and you will see the obvious landslide area on the ridge left of the stream coming down from Cwm Clyd.
