Craig Davies has struck gold again, this time finding an impressive boulder just above Llyn Coedty over on the far east side of the Carneddau.
The bloc has three lines on it. Starting from the right there is Swiss Crumble (7B) that branches off right wards into the arête from the obvious sds. Aravius (7B+) climbs direct up the face from the same sds and uses an amazing pod feature for its crux. (NB. this is three stars and worth visiting for alone even if you think the 8A is out of your league.)
The main line on the boulder is Plunder the Horde (8A) which moves leftwards from the sds via the large smile hold and finishes with a tough dead point move to a lovely edge.
”This is a real beauty, a proud impressive bloc in a stunning location. It has physical moves on good holds. It’s everything I look for in a boulder. You can’t beat a good FA, let’s hope they keep showing up!” enthused Craig after the ascent.
Tim Blake and Aidan Roberts have already repeated the line confirming the quality and suggesting 8A or maybe 8A+ for the grade.
NB. Do not climb on this boulder if it is at all wet as the rock is softer than the typical Welsh mountain rock and breakages may occur.
Approach: Approach as if going to Cerrig Cochion (see page 374 in the NWB 3.1 guide) but take the left turn to Llyn Coedty. Park sensibly and head up the rocky path through the woods on the south side of the reservoir. Go through a gate then 15m past the gate pass over a stile on the right, then it’s about 20m to the boulder which sits above the leat which traverses the hillside.
