Last year George Smith found an interesting boulder at Ceunant Cae-gwegi, over on the south east side of Coed Bryn-engan, Capel Curig. George showed the boulder (which he had nick-named 'Forest Lump') to his usual partner in crime, Martin Crook. Martin managed to climb the obvious left-to-right traverse, starting on the large sloping shelf then following the break rightwards before topping out at the right end. Forest Pump (7A) is a superb addition, not to dissimilar in character to the Barrel Traverse below Dinas Mot, albeit at an easier grade.

George climbed a direct sds line through the centre-right section of the traverse, moving up past the obvious flatty. Run! rates 6B.

A few months ago Si Panton tried to find the boulder by trekking through the woods from the Cobdens Hotel bridge but failed. Tonight he took the much simpler route described below and found it straight away. Si repeated Forest Pump, confirming the quality and grade, then braved the ongoing midge attack to climb the obvious link into Run!. Forest, Run! (7A) is also a very fine piece of sustained climbing with lovely holds.

Approach: This area of little visited woodland is on the outskirts of Capel Curig and is best approached via the main Moel Siabod path. Park in the lay-by near Pont Cyfyng then walk back along the road and turn left over the bridge above the river. Walk along the road for 100m then take the right fork leading up hill and signposted for Moel Siabod. Follow the road up, taking a footpath diversion on the left to avoid the farm. Continue up the track, passing a gate by the Siabod Cottages on the left. After 500m a second gate is reached, marking the start of the open access land. Head rightwards, descending through slightly marshy terrain keeping the boundary fence to your right. 10m metres left of the old building remains cross an A-frame stile over the fence. Head rightwards initially and pick up a vague path trending back left to run down the right side of a stream. Follow the path down for 200m until you can see a white house further down the wooded valley. You should see the boulder on the other side of the valley – when you do, cross the stream and walk up to reach it. GPS 53.094822, -3.901484 (35 mins). Do keep the noise down so as not to disturb the people staying in the the white house.

The footage below is Si making the second ascent of Forest Pump, wearing his big jumper, even though he was over-heating, to keep the midges off. Despite what Martin says in the film, it wasn’t a flash, just a first go after sussing out the different sections.

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