Gwilym Tossell, Jack Pearce and Iolo Llwyd have added some intense new problems to the Fronllwyd area of Nant Ffrancon. See page 272 in the NWB 3.1 guide.
The first boulder is halfway along a mini valley/trough that traverses the hillside below the Ogwen Prowler. The main line, which fell to Gwil first, is The Bean Traverse (7A), a left-to-right lip excursion on some lovely rock. There is also a 6C mantel and a 6B+ early exit from the traverse.
”The boulder is slightly lowball for one of the movies, however the rock quality is sublime. Almost the best I've climbed on in North Wales. The holds are also excellent. Perfectly sized and aesthetically pleasing.” enthused Jack after the ascent.
The lads then moved further up the hill to another bulge, 5m right of Ogwen Prowler. Jack climbed the first two lines here which both start in the same place, i.e. a small hold below the obvious pinch/jug. Joyride (6A) rocks onto the slab once the jug is gained, whilst Deathslide (6C) continues leftwards before rocking out onto the slab at a good flat hold.
Gwil then added the fierce Deathslide low (7B+), which starts with your right hand on the aręte and left on a small crimp/sidepull. A heel goes on a small edge out to the left - this is close to the ground but usable without dabbing. Desperate moves lead leftwards into the Deathslide finish. A spotter is useful for the initial section.
Jack has made a couple of films which capture the playful vibe of the day.
