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Once again in Dyffryn Ogwen, Jack Pearce and Gwilym Tossell have developed a cool leaning wall which you pass on the way to the Smackhead block at Gallt yr Ogof.

The wall has four main lines and one eliminate. The high quality rock and large, pleasant holds makes for some surprisingly good climbing.

Star Reacher (6C) starts standing, hands in the two obvious slots/jugs. Get a high right foot, reach up right to a slopey edge and then jump left to the aręte. [FA: Gwil]

There are two different sds to Star Reacher. Moonraker (7A) starts on the right with both hands on a massive (and delightful) undercut, before crossing over to one of the big slots, etc. [FA: Gwil]

The left hand start, Moonbender (7A) begins with your left hand on a small slopey crimp and your right on a big undercut gaston. A weird drop knee gets you established into the first slot and thus into Star Reacher. [FA: Jack]

Don't Panic (7A) tackles the right aręte from a sds. There are many possible methods for this attractive line. [FA: Jack]

The last pure line is The Total Perspective Vortex (7B) - this starts sitting at the base of the aręte, moves up slightly and then across into Star Reacher.

“This is absolutely phenomenal. Loads of precise technical moves on amazing holds with a little bit of burl at the start as well.” enthused Jack after the first ascent.

Finally there is a somewhat impure line - Pluto (7A+) starts sitting in the same place as Moonraker, but you reach up with your left hand instead of your right, get a right toe on the aręte and then make a long reach to a small edge. [FA: Jack]

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