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Dyffryn Ogwen is definitely the place to be at the moment, with quality first ascents dropping every week, so it seems. Last month Gwil Tossell climbed the sitting start to Ben Walley’s recent addition, Vault of Glass, reckoning 7C+ was a fair grade. Gwil got it on his second session. Jack Pearce managed to get the 2nd ascent yesterday (his 3rd session), confirming the grade at solid 7C+.

''None of the moves are too bad in isolation but linking them together is hard because you have to use the same small left crimp for most of the moves and your hand gets tired and sweaty.'' said Gwil.

Last week Jack added another line to the same boulder. Ben can Build (7B+/C) starts at the base of the right arête and heads up and then left to join the finish for Vault of Glass.

”You start with your left hand on the lower sidepull and right on a pinch. Your right foot goes on a small but positive foothold (sharp, stiff shoes will really help for this) and reach up high to an AMAZING pinch. Then you bump your left hand slightly higher to a smaller sidepull and smash up with your right hand to snatch the slopey lip. It’s a really amazing problem. That pinch is truly phenomenal. Gwil and I thought it was likely 7B+/7C. Hard to be certain, need to get some more people on it.” said Jack after the ascent.

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