Sam Cattell has climbed a desperate new line at the Pantymwyn Devil's Gorge in the Clwyd Valley.
Under Pressure V11/8a starts left of Be Ruthless from a sitting start at
the base of the bulge. Pull on with left hand pinching an undercut, right
hand in a slot. The line trends up and left to finish above an overlap on
a flat jug left of a big hole. It took Sam a few sessions to work out the
surprisingly sequency and powerful moves.
Sam’s brother, Danny, climbed an interesting new problem in the Gorge itself. Under the Bridge V8/7b is apparently easy to locate. Danny’s description ran thus: “It’s a standing start on a right hand under cut, and uses a crimp on the obvious shield, plus toe hooks to gain the flat hold to the left. It then finishes on the dusty jugs
above. Good climbing, and definitely worth a look.”
Danny also mentioned that to his knowledge the problem Thug Mental described in the recent Rockfax guide had not actually been climbed yet.
Relevant links:
Be Ruthless sds news item
|