Dave Noden has climbed the last (?) and hardest in a series of links based around the new problem Rock for Light at the Cromlech boulders. Rock – Deprivation V8+/7b+ links, as the name suggests, the start of Rock for Light into the finish of Sleep Deprivation, to give another brilliant and sustained connection, building to a hard climax turning the lip of the main roof.
So, to recap, and after a bit of grade consensus, the best cave links are as follows, in order of difficulty:
Cromlech Roof Crack V6/7a
Cromlech Roof Crack – lip traverse finish onto block V7/7a+
Cromlech Roof Crack – lip traverse into RFL finish (i.e. no block) V7/8/7a+/7b
Sleep – Rock V7/8/7a+/7b
Rock for Light V8/7b
Sleep – Light V8/7b
Sleep Deprivation V8+/7b+
Rock – Deprivation V8+/7b+
(N.B. Those scurrilous individuals starting Sleep Deprivation with their foot on the rattley flake can drop a grade from whatever link they end up doing – only joking, but it is a bit easier than the original method, i.e. paste a foot on one of the dinks further back in the cave, then kung-fu kick left to gain the rattley flake once you've made the first move.)
Relevant links:
|