The Trwyn Talfarach headland to the east of Porth Ysgo continues to provide new lines; most significant of the recent crop is the right hand bulging arête on the boulder just left of the classic Billy Boy Arete. First to top out on Little Jem (V5/Font 6c) was Jemma Powell This excellent sitting start problem features powerful climbing with a very reasonable landing.

On the seaward facing block just to the right (facing in) and closer to the sea a couple of new lines were climbed. Jazzy’s Roof (V4/Font 6b) is the superb black wall undercut by a small roof. The first ascent credit goes to Jeff McDonald. Just to the right, Jon Ratcliffe climbed the hanging arête on the left side of Mermaid Wall (a classic V1/Font 5) at about V3/Font 6a. Both these problems require careful spotting and the use of multiple pads.

Information on the headland crags of Trwyn Talfarach, Porth Nefoedd and Bytylith has thus far been rather limted. Some topos were published in an article in OTE in 2003, but they did not feature in the 2004 North Wales Bouldering guide. The situation is due to change; in next month’s Climber magazine, there will be a Stone Circles article on Trwyn Talfarach and a formal guide is on its way. One of the primary developers of the area, Jon Ratcliffe, has started work on a Lleyn Bouldering booklet, which will cover Trwyn Talfarach, Porth Nefoedd, Bytylith and the nearby Porth Oer cave, plus a revised Porth Ysgo section. Lleyn Bouldering will be published by Ground Up Productions, for updates on its progress check groundupclimbing.com.

Copies of Aquamarine, Paul Higginson’s chilled out bouldering film, which features all of the gabbro bouldering crags in this area, can still be obtained from the Indy climbing wall and some of the North Wales climbing shops. Failing that, contact Paul directly via his website digitaldrugs.org.

Trwyn Talfarach approach: At the crossroads in the centre of Rhiw take the lane heading towards the sea. After 200m the road splits (a possible parking spot); take the right hand branch and follow it down for 300m and park on the grass verge at a suitable place. If the ground is soggy it would be better to park at the previously mentioned parking spot. Walk down the track and through the farm, following a path contouring across the western flank of Mynydd Penarfynydd, until it is possible to drop down steep grass slopes into the boulder field on the tip of the headland.

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