Yes, it’s official, Pill Box Wall is the new Roadrunner Cave! Chris Doyle has been busy again adding 3 new links on his favourite crag, bumping the list of problems and links to over 20 (and I'm sure there is more to come).

Firstly, he linked The Cypriot into Whisky Bitch V9/7c – essentially Millenium Drive with a different start. Secondly, he climbed The Malteser V9/7c, which starts at the fingery Whisky Bitch/The Greek sitter then heads left reversing the Millenium Drive crux. Lastly, he linked his own problem Jack Daniels Connection into The Greek (aka: Jack the Greek) V9/7c.

The following list summarises the current state of play, but is also an attempt to address the grading inaccuracies. Ideally there would be a voting option (and I do have plans to set this up soon); in the meantime, please send in any feedback on problems/links you have done or tried from the list.

1. Pill Box Wall V12/13/8a+/8b (FA: John Gaskins, 2005)

2. Millenium Drive V9/7c (FA: Christian Klemmow, 1999)

3. The Cypriot – WB V9/7c (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)

4. Jack Daniels – The Greek (aka: Jack the Greek) V9/7c (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)

5. The Malteser V9/7c (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)

6. Whisky Bitch sds V8+/9/7b+/7c (FA: Chris Davies, 1997)

7. Chris’ Link V8+/7b+ (FA: Chris Doyle, 2002)

8. The Cypriot V8+/7b+ (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)

9. MD - The Greek V8+/7b+ (FA: Nige Harris, 2003)

10. Jack Daniels Connection V8/7b (FA: Chris Doyle, 2002)

11. Pill Thrill sds V8/7b (FA: ?)

12. Chocolate Wall V8/7b (FA: Christian Klemmow, 1998)

13. Drive By V8/7b (FA: Patch Hammond, 1997)

14. Whisky Bitch V8/7b (FA: Chris Davies, 1997)

15. The Greek sds V8/7b (FA: Chris Davies, 1997)

16. Flake ‘99 V7/7a+ (FA: ?)

17. Pill Thrill V7/7a+ (FA: Christian Klemmow, 1998)

18. Ain’t no party like a Pill Box party V7/7a+ (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)

19. Mr Whippy V7/7a+ (FA: ?)

20. Pill Box Original V6/7/7a/7a+ (FA: ?)

21. The Greek V6/7a (FA: Neil Dyer, 1997)

22. Les Bos V5/6c+ (FA: Chris Doyle, 2006)



It’s worth pointing out that the sitting start for Whisky Bitch/The Greek is normally done: right hand: crimp in black streak, left hand: nearest one of the pair of crimps to the left. Short climbers will probably be comfortable starting matched in the black streak.

Chris’ Link V8+/7b+ connects Pill Box Original into The Greek via a reverse of the Whisky Bitch traverse.

Flake ‘99 V7/7a+ is an old eliminate line described in the old Northern Soul fanzines, but left out of the 2004 guide. It starts matched on the slopey rail mentioned below. It climbs directly up using anything, but avoiding holds left of the vertical seam and the right arête of the face.

Jack Daniels Connection V8+/7b+ is another semi eliminate, but very worthwhile line missed from the guide. This starts sitting as for Pill Box Original but goes directly up to a 3 finger ear just left of a large slopey hold on Pill Box Original. With the aid of a small edge on Pill Box Wall it then makes a hard move up to catch the obvious high edge. A quick match leads to a finish in the break.

Also of note is an impressive campus problem (based on Pill Box Original) climbed by Nige Harris a few years ago. Start hanging matched on the slopey rail on the right (hard),campus up with left hand to the next slopey hold (one were your thumb goes on the side),campus again with right up to the third slopey edge, then again (with your left) to the high edge, and finally up to the break. No matching (except on the start). Nige reckoned it was V9/7cish. (Editor’s note: If anybody repeats this do get in touch, as I’m guessing it’s harder than Nige’s suggested grade.)

Relevant links: