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Si Panton on Clever Cleaver standing start V7/8/7a+/7b, photos: Jack Rattenbury


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This afternoon Si Panton succeeded in climbing the ramp connection from Clever Beaver into the top of Beaver Cleaver in Parisella’s Cave.

“I’d been looking to do this line all winter, but there has been a persistent drainage weep on the right side of one of the crucial holds. My original sequence involved matching on this hold, and I always ended up with 2 or 3 fingers wetted out. Today was the same old deal and I nearly walked away again, but as a parting shot, I tried a crossover sequence that I had previously rejected. First go it seemed promising, and it meant I didn't have to touch the wet part of the hold. Second go I made it all the way to the top from a standing start. A brilliant piece of climbing that keeps coming at you, all the way into the highball finish of Beaver Cleaver.”

Commented Si after the ascent.

Clever Cleaver standing start is about 8 moves long and rates V7/8/7a+/7b?

Si had to leave to pick up his kids, so he passed the baton to Chris Wheeldon, who had just driven over from the Pass, having done Jerry’s Roof for the first time. Chris managed to extend the problem back to the logical crouching start of Clever Beaver adding 4 or 5 moves.

Clever Cleaver rates about V8/+/7b/+.

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