Chris Doyle and Sam – Mule - Cattell returned to the Crafnant boulders, a complex jumble of blocks beneath Craig y Dwr, which they helped to develop back in 2002, and added a trio of superb new problems.
First off, Chris did a new sitting start to Breakaway, at V5/6c. Then Sam climbed a line in between Breakaway and Wonderwall. Filthy Hunks V5/6c features some satisfying campus moves on slopers. Sam also climbed the right arete of Wonderwall from a sitter at V5/6c again.
It does seem that crag classic, Wonderwall is criminally undergraded at V7/7a+. Chris commented that it felt harder than most of the V9/7cs he had been doing on his recent trip to Hueco! Sounds like it might be comparable to some of Ding Dong’s legendary V8/7bs.
“We also got close, but didn't manage to repeat, Mark Katz's line, Cruella; a really good problem on mint slopers. This is worth solid V8/7b and is to be found on the left hand side of the Wonderwall block. We didn't try Danny's problem Grasswind but it looked nails, i.e. at least V9/7c.”
Commented Chris.
Grasswind lies on the left side of the boulder field, about 10 metres below Breakaway. It is obvious, being the only line hereabouts with a good landing. It starts sitting on a ramp feature and moves up to a side pull, before heading for the top and a tricky exit. This was first done by Danny Cattell a few years back. It is unrepeated, unless of course you know different.
(NB. for approach details see page 170 in the NWB guide.)
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