The Llanberis Pass is undoubtedly one of the best places to boulder in North Wales. This narrow glaciated valley houses a vast array of boulders scattered across its slopes, particularly on the Dinas Mot and Ynys Ettws side. Unsurprisingly, given the abundance of climbable rock, there has been a lot of development since the 2004 guidebook. In an attempt to highlight the growing list of mid and hard grade problems an updated hit list has been compiled using the same cut off point as the popular Fontainebleau guide, 7 + 8s. This includes all known problems, plus a couple of classic/historical eliminates in the Font 7a – 8b range (i.e. V6 – V13).
The list has been compiled in the same order that the problems and crags appear in the guidebook. Thus, armed with the search facility on this site and a copy of said book, you should be able to suss what is what. The grades offered are an attempt to redress some of the inaccuracies and blatant sandbags that slipped into the guide. Feedback on the grades (and the star ratings) is very welcome – please email in your thoughts.
One or two problems have not been featured in any news items, for example: Bus Stop LH finish 7c. This is a variation finish climbing up left of the aręte: crimp the top of the highest side pull on the normal Jerry’s Roof/Bus Stop finish with your right, rock out left to a gaston (left), take a horizontal edge/pinch (right) and pop to a jug (left) just below the finishing jug on Jerry’s Roof, and pull over to the same jug (right).
To download the Llanberis Pass 7 + 8 pdf click
here
Over 170 problems: the ultimate trainspotter’s delight!
Relevant links:
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