Simon Witcher and Chris Barnes have extended developments at Craig Ty Mawr (GR: SJ 079 737), the recently reported new crag situated just North of Tremeirchion.
The most significant new problem fell to Chris: Flag of Iron V5/6cish starts sitting on jugs below the flat undercut of 36 Chambers, but climbs directly up the wall on positive side pulls, where 36 Chambers pulls out rightwards. Finish at a good side pull flake at 'ivy level'.
Simon chipped in with a couple of good additions. Firstly, Method Man V2/5+, which climbs leftwards from the same sitting start as Flag of Iron, rocking onto the sloping ledge out left. Follow the crack up to the ivy. And secondly Reticent Wall Right Hand V3/6a, which lies leftwards 20m up the hill from 36 Chambers. Here there is a smooth, gently overhanging wall behind a large tree. The left hand side of the wall has a hard-looking (unclimbed?) line using small undercuts and a mono to possibly gain an obvious sloping edge. On the right hand side of the wall there is a more user-friendly flake. Start sitting using a good, low flake. Gain a thin tufa pinch for the left hand and a good, little pocket. Pull on to the good flake above and stretch to poor edges to finish. Lacks a finishing jug, but still worthwhile.
Access: The farmer is happy for people to climb at the crag, as long as it is clearly understood that climbing there is done at the climber's own risk. Parking is restricted to one small lay by directly opposite the farm entrance. If this is full then please go elsewhere; do not under any circumstances block any gates or vehicular access.
Relevant links:
|