This month Big G takes us down the north coast of the Lleyn to the water worn wonders of Trwyn y Tal. For the sake of completeness, I feel I should point out that this crag is home to one of North Wales’ most talked about routes, the fearsome Ugly. Big G is loathe to mention this, but (whisper this bit), he did the first ascent of it in 1992. I know, I know, it’s shocking. Big G’s excuse has always been that they didn’t have bouldering pads back then, and that he just went along with the ‘ropes and harness’ thing because everybody else was doing it.

Anyway, enough of this shameful affair, let’s get back to matters of a less controversial nature:

Dear NWB readers,

I have long been a fan of the sea- pummeled rocks of Trefor, whose loose tops have tended to put boulderers off the scent. Yes the place is mostly choss, but the bottom ten feet has become a pebble-polished paradise of smooth slabs, cracks and caves.

Approach south from Trefor pier, following a cliff top path until roughly half way along its length (Trwyn y Tal gr 365 474) you come across a ridge running out to sea and three substantial pinnacles guarding small beaches (popular with dead birds). Descant is by a narrow zig-zag path followed by a brief scramble down the back of the zawn.

The northern beach sports a through-cave, the inner walls of which might offer something at extreme low tides or on hot days. Its front archway has pleasant traverses. At the other end of this beach the inner-most pinnacle offers an obvious slabby groove on its northeast facet, the ascent of which relies on the presence of limpets for holds.

Use of limpets and associated crustacea as holds - a suggested code of practice: As limpets are wild creatures with family, friends (and small faces with eyes on stalks) they should be treated with the utmost care and respect. A gentle tap on the shell will serve as a warning to them that they are about to be used as a hold. This will enable them to clamp more firmly to the surface, thus protecting themselves and making them more reliable for upward progress - so everybody wins. They do not bear the weight of an adult male in the role of a foot hold, and thus the practice should be discouraged for the good of both parties.

...I digress. Now, as the tide recedes, further beaches of sculpted slabs will be accessed along with several significant caves and roof cracks to the south west. Landings are perfect. Our only enemy is seepage - so go during a dry period.

It won't be pretty, the smoothness of some of these features makes them a little harder than they look!

Power to the brothers and sisters,

Big G

Relevant links:
      Ugly gets repeated news item