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Dave Noden has climbed an amazing hard problem in the boulder field below Craig y Dwr in the Crafnant Valley. Special K V11/8A tackles the obvious rising traverse line on the opposite side of the Wonderwall block.
The problem starts sitting down on the left with a pair of edges. Hard, snatchy moves lead into an immaculate finger rail leading rightwards across the steep face to reach some slopey shelves and a delightful finish using a slopey aręte out right to gain the top.
To read Dave's thoughts on the grade go to his blog.
The next line to fall came from a very psyched Gav Foster, taking a much needed break from his house build project. Gav got stuck into the direct line rising up from the start of Special K. To everyone’s surprise this went at a fairly reasonable standard. Straight off the proverbial bench Gav flashed it, only to flounder on the horrendously slopey direct top out, which he hadn’t bothered to clean.
After a bit of sussing he decided to take the obvious rising finish along the lip into the top of Special K. Next go he nailed it without any fuss and another classic was born. Parallel Lines rates V6/7A.
Also on day release from his house building project was Si Panton.
“I cleaned a slopey aręte line 30m up to the right of the Wonderwall block. This looked steady, but proved to have a very tricky start. Eventually I worked out how to stick the move and continued to the top with a series of slappy moves on gorgeous slopey rock.”
Plan C V6/7A starts sitting with a pistol grip undercut just right of the aręte (the lower one is better for some reason) and a poor sidepull for the left. A hard to snag catch might see you connect with a sloping guppy on the aręte. If you stick the move continue up left and rock out leftwards to reach easier ground and the top.
For approach details see page 170 in the NWB guide. It would also be possible to walk over from Capel Curig.
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