Just before Christmas Owen Hayward headed back down the Lleyn Peninsula to clean up some unfinished business on the Dolly Rocker block at Porth Ysgo.

Most impressive was a low start to his own problem Dringo Gaeaf which weighed in at V7/7A+. Pull on using a chest/head height (depending on how tall you are!) poor sidepull (left) and sloper (right). A hard move gains the spike hold up and left followed by sustained moves to the top of the arete.

Next up was Slap Handed V5/6C, the left hand seaward arete of the block (when viewing block with back to the sea). This went from sitting with an obvious good diagonal edge in black seam for left and the arete for right. Slap up the arete with your right hand using poor face holds for the left to a final scary/tenuous slap for the top.

“Have a good spotter for this one! warned Owen.

Owen also climbed Crack Slap V3/6A, which tackles the face just left of Slap Handed. Pull on using high side pull for the right and a crack for left, then lay one on for the top.

Lastly there was Winter Swell V5/6C. This traverses the landward face of the block from the same low starting position as Dringo Gaeaf down in the pit, but reaches the spike/side pull with the right hand. A desperate rockover up and left should get you established on the face. Move left to a monster side pull and finish out left to the lip of block.

Relevant links:
      Dringo Gaeaf stand up news item