Pete Robins has cleaned up an old project line on Craig y Facrell, a little known but easily seen Llandudno crag situated on the West Shore side of the Orme (OS grid ref 768 827).

The Bottom Billion 7B+ tackles the central line on the roof/bulge. Start matched in the horizontal break at the back of the roof and undercut out and up, using the conspicuous two/three finger dish on the upper face with the left hand (the obvious version taking it with the right hand remains unclimbed). The low flake/ramp is obviously out of bounds for feet at this standard.

The crag has a mystery route line with a bolt and was first looked at as bouldering venue in the mid 90s by Patch Hammond, Si Panton and Chris Davies. Si returned a few years back with Jon Ratcliffe and climbed all the easier lines. Jon also climbed a tricky and powerful 7A+/B moving up past an obvious side pull at the left side of the main bulge.

Although not a major venue, it is sheltered from the prevailing south westerly winds and rain showers and is often dry when the traditional Marine Drive spots are wet.

It is possible to reach the crag by a variety of routes:

1. Park in a small layby 150m down from the top car park on top of the Orme. Cross the road and follow a path left of the quarries, dropping down over a small and broken escarpment before heading rightwards then dropping down steeply and contouring back left to reach the crag where a wall runs up the hill to meet it.

2. Walk up from West Shore.

3. Contour round from Ty’n y Coed Road.

To see a topo showing the crag location as seen from West shore click here

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