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Phil Targett on The Stick Boy Shuffle 7A Photo: Targett collection

Josie Ball on Jaws 5+ Photo: Fraser Ball

Phil Targett has climbed a steep traverse line on a riverside boulder on the Bangor side of Bethesda.

The Stick Boy Shuffle 7A starts sitting at the extreme left of the Three Bears Boulder. Pull on with a shallow dish for the left hand and a sharp lay away for the right. Traverse rightwards past a line of flakes and continue along the lip to finish up the big lay away on the arete. A shorter 6A version exits up the line of flakes.

Approach details: as you travel along the A5 towards Bethesda (assuming you are coming from Bangor) you pass a house (Ty Pont y Pandy) on the sharp bend just after the bridge crossing Afon Ogwen. Carry on for another 500m until a layby appears on the left, just before a house. Park here and walk up the road for approx 300m until a small bouldering area hidden in the trees on the left can be seen (this is the Goldilocks Boulders). A handy marker is some recently felled trees. Jump over the wall on the right and head straight down to the river. The boulder is just on your left.

The aforementioned Goldilocks Boulders are a series of small walls. The rock is solid with good landings and the aspect is very pleasing. The best line is Jaws, a 5+ tackling the obvious crack from a sds - this was first climbed a few years back by Josie Ball.

Other notable problems here are Hip Hop Flip Flop 6C, a sds to the left facing groove in the wall behind and Eye Ball Paul 5+, the slightly highball wall to the right.

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