Owen Hayward has added a series of intense problems to the undercut block just right of the Boss Cuvier block in the Beddgelert Forest.
Hardest of the bunch is The Gringe 7B/+, a powerful left-to-right traverse of the lip.
“It’s amazing what you can cram into a small piece of rock – but they really all are independent and good…honest!”
The Shuffalo block – problems described left-to-right:
1. Big, Bad Mouse 4 The high slab on the right side of the gully also makes a good descent.
2. Matterhorn Arete 6B+/C *
Struggle up the left arete from a sds at its base.
3. The Gringe 7B/+ **
Intense left-to-right traverse of the block. From a sds at the left arete (as for Matterhorn Arete) move up to the sloping shoulder then follow the lip right past a great finger juglet in the middle to gain the base of the right arete and a finish up this.
4. Fat Doon 6C *
From a sds under the roof just left of centre pull on using good, high edges, slap up to gain the sloping shoulder on the left arete and struggle to get established in a standing position on this. Finish easily up the arete.
5. Fat Child 7A+ *
From the Fat Doon sds pull on move slightly right to get the finger juglet then make difficult moves to gain a standing position on the slab above. Finish straight up the middle of the high slab.
6. The Shuffalo 7B **
The right-to-left traverse of the block is also excellent. Sds at the base of the right arete, follow the lip tenuously left past the finger juglet then slap up to gain the sloping shoulder on the left arete. Struggle to get established in a standing position on this then finish easily up the arete above.
7. The Shuffalo’s Child 7A+ *
Follow The Shuffalo to the finger juglet and make tricky moves to get established standing on the slab directly above this. Finish straight up the middle of the high slab.
8. The Deep, Dark Wood 6A+
The right arete from a low, cramped sds.