Ryan McConnell and Luke Clarke have developed the bouldering potential of Hidden Buttress at Maeshafn (see page 139 of the Clwyd Limestone guide, OS grid ref SJ 213 615). This shady wall (which can be found 60m left of the Main Wall) now has nice collection of problems in the 6A – 7A+ range and is already proving popular with the locals.
The described problems are independent in as much as they follow obvious lines on the wall with obvious starts and finishes. Various eliminate problems and variations are possible but these are left for others to rediscover.
1. Something for the Wknd 6C The left-hand line; start sitting. From the good ledges climb up via a move left to a good crimp and use the positive undercut to gain crimp on the wall above and so to the finishing holds up right. [Ryan McConnell 01.07.12]
2. Optimax 7A From a sds on good holds, move up via a pinch and rounded crimp to a long move to a mono and small crimp to finish as for One Scoop or Two. [Ryan McConnell 01.07.12]
3. Conger 7A+ The line of the Buttress! Start sitting, right hand on positive side pull, using good holds initially, traverse left until its possible to finish up Something for the Wknd (crimpy). [Ryan McConnell 20.07.12]
4. One Scoop or Two 6B The central line of the wall, start as for Conger, climb left before going straight up. Finish matching holds above the jugs on the E4. [Ryan McConnell 01.07.12]
5. Snap Dragon 6C Start as for previous problem then utilising a high right foot rock over into a small undercut. Finish on a positive finger jug straight up. [Ryan McConnell 12.07.12]
6. Moose Knuckle 6B The scooped niche from low down, starting matched on the obvious side pull. Climb up and into crack out right. [Luke Clarke 20.07.12]
7. Sneaky as a Shrew 6A The righter most line. From a sds on a small side pull (left hand) climb to the square cut top and mantel [Luke Clarke 01.07.12]
The two routes shown on the topo are The Green Wall E4 6a and Sita E2 5b. These now have stake belays at the top.
Do bear in mind the access advice: always ask permission to climb from the farmer Mr Thomas at Bryn Gwyn farm. Please park with consideration for farm vehicles which use the track to the crag.
To view a topo of Hidden Buttress click here.