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The Far Side 7A Photos: Owen Hayward


School for the Gifted 7A


Larsen 6A

Owen Hayward has developed a neat little boulder near the Made in Heaven block at Porth Ysgo.

The Far Side 7A starts sitting with feet on two big blocks underneath then pops up to left edge/side pull (farthest hold you can see in photo) then uses nifty footwork and the big undercut to work back right and up to latch the top. Good fun!

The hanging arÍte to the right is: School for the Gifted 7A. Start sitting under the roof/arete with left on slopey ramp and right down below/right on a sloper. No foot blocks allowed. Move out to good edge at base of little arete then tricky moves straight up this to finish.

There's also a good variation finish moving left below the top: follow School for the Gifted but get a good RH pinch of the arete then move out left to get a crimp on the wall on the left and use this to top out.

And lastly, there is Larsen 6A, which is a stand up line tackling the seaward face of the block. Start with left hand on good high side pull (just right of arete) and right hand on high finger edge/sloper. Smear right foot just over the lip and deadpoint to the top. The sds would be hard. (NB. The low block to the right is out of bounds)

The boulder can be found 100m beyond the Made in Heaven block, well above high tide level at the back of the boulder beach. A few boulders lean together to form a recess with an obvious roof/arete feature facing Made in Heaven.

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