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Pete trying Momentary Grip 7C+/8A on a previous visit. Photos: Si Panton


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The new wave of Ogwen development continues apace. On Friday Pete Robins climbed the immaculate undercut prow line on the back of the Slappers block, which sits just up the hill from the Smackhead boulder at Gallt yr Ogof.

It took three sessions to do and although Pete initially thought it might be 7C he revised this up to the 7C+/8A originally predicted by NWB.comís esteemed editor (ah hem!) when it became apparent just how tricky it was.

The problem starts sitting and features some very tenuous slaps on poor slopers before a more accommodating line of side pulls allows a big move for the top.

Eagle eyed climbing trivia fans will notice that the name, Momentary Grip, is, along with the recent The Rockís The Star, a Johnny Dawes quote.

And finally, and just for the record (given that almost every hard ascent that Pete has ever done has been filmed or witnessed), there is no footage available and Peteís ascent was unwitnessed (although his dog, Spike, was there).

Stop Press: Calum Muskett has been in touch to point out that he climbed this line from a crouching/low start (at about 7B) back in March. He was unsure of the exact starting position.

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